Innovating for sustainable cosmetics
The cosmetics sector is facing a huge challenge: sustainable development. To accompany this transition, Addiplast Group is redoubling its efforts on innovation and the formulation of materials as close as possible to market expectations.
Interview: Polyvia & Béatrice Genetiot, Cosmetics & Helathcare Key Accounts Manager.
Béatrice Genetiot, can you talk about your activity within the Group Addiplast?
I joined Addiplast Group 2 years ago, in order to develop the cosmetic sector which is in full mutation from a regulatory point of view. Each project implies more and more requirements, but with a quality structure already in place for medical applications, we can easily transpose it to the cosmetic sector.
What are your key innovations for the cosmetics market?
Addiplast Group is a major supplier to the cosmetics sector, with a wide range of compound solutions for luxury goods and masterbatches for the entire sector: from mass-dyed materials to high-density materials composed of mineral fillers, including ceramic effects, marbled effects, cold touch, etc. and materials suitable for various finishing processes such as galvanization, metallization, lacquering, varnishing, etc., not forgetting the colored masterbatches with the third production site of Addiplast Group.
Our research center Addiscience focuses on the formulation of compounds using recycled materials:
obtained by mechanical recycling, PCR (Post Consumer Recycled) or PIR (Post Industrial Recycled), incorporating a PP grade suitable for food contact according to FDA NOL (Non Objection Letter) regulations, obtained from chemical recycling, which have properties equivalent to virgin materials.
These materials are rigorously selected and are subject to strict internal approvals to meet aesthetic or mechanical applications. Always with the aim of reducing the proportion of fossil-based plastics, we are developing compounds with a concentration of up to 30% of plant fibers such as flax, miscanthus, wood, oyster shells, etc., including a food version for primary packaging.
Addiplast Group collaborates since 2019 with Floreon, a company recognized in the field of sustainable materials technology and in particular formulations using a plastic of plant origin (PLA) by improving its performance, making it up to ten times more resistant than conventional PLA. These materials come from renewable resources and are suitable for composting (Ok Compost) and recycling. These new materials are available under our brand Addibio Renew®.
What specific issue has emerged lately?
Proposition 65 is a global issue, it is a list of chemical substances banned by the State of California, due to toxicity and possible carcinogenic effects. In this list, we find substances such as styrene or formaldehyde of which ABS and POM are composed. As an alternative to POM, we offer lubricated PBT and POK which guarantee flexibility and strength for pump mechanisms and mascara wands. And we have developed low-shrinkage PP grades suitable for metallization (ADDILENE PMD 50333) that can be used in tooling designed for ABS.
Are you working on other innovations?
A great deal of Research & Development work has been going on for over a year on the subject of galvanizing with less environmental impact. Hexavalent chromium 6 is about to be banned for galvanizing in Europe by 2024, in favor of the less chemically aggressive trivalent chromium 3. The challenge is to find solutions for PP parts, which are more complex to chrome-plate. It is a major challenge for all the players in the cosmetics industry to find solutions in the very short term. The Addiplast group has succeeded in involving the main players in the industry: galvanizers, chromium plating bath manufacturers and processors. Conclusive results give hope for a successful solution by the end of 2021.
What are the Addiplast Group’s challenges in terms of sustainable development?
If the circular economy is virtuous in ecological terms, it also brings new commercial, industrial and technological opportunities. We have opted for a proactive approach in order to anticipate our customers’ expectations, where the use of biobased or recycled polymers is becoming a strategic differentiation axis.
Among these actions, Addiplast Group joined the EcoVadis CSR and responsible purchasing performance assessment platform in 2019, and was awarded the bronze medal that year. The group is continuing its actions to reach the next level and the silver medal.